I’ve been trying to source a brake reservoir check valve for a while. Gave up and fabricated my own. Reamed pipe plug ID to .25″, drilled a #40 vent hole, and installed a ball bearing and bonded in a .25″ rigid aluminum tube with drain back reliefs filed into it. Seems to work and the price was right.
Removed wheels double checked all bolts torqued. Reinstalled, cotter pinned, and safety wired rotors.
Fabricated lower cowl stand which will capture cowl when lowered with hoist.
Installed rudder cable eyebolts and confirmed washer stack for vertical pedal position.
Got my brake lines from TSflightlines. Beautiful work of art. Fabricated lines from reservoir to masters and installed. Bled brakes for the third time. Now the wait begins for the leak check.
There are a couple different ways to adapt Beringer MP-002.5s to RV-8 rudder pedals.
I chose to delete the Beringer spacers and added spacers from McMaster PN 93655A256 and used Beringer bottom clevises CHP-003. This allows for a similar install to the Matcos and gets the body low enough for return springs to clear the pedals.
TSfightlines has a 20 degree side bend banjo that’s works well for the out ports and a -3 to -4 flare for connecting to the bulkhead fittings.
Having more issues with Beringer for RV8s. The master cylinders in my opinion are spaced too far out from the pedals due to the external springs and the included spacers. To mount the masters they have to be mounted low to avoid pedal interference. This requires M6 spacers that McMaster-Carr sells. There is not much room but I think it will work. Tom with TSFlightlines is providing me with technical support and will make brake lines for me once I get the configuration nailed down. I originally made brake lines that come with the Beringer kit but decided I need something more professional.
Installed wheel fairings, adjusted brake lines to proper position, and sanded seam gaps. Looks like the pic is in sephia, the caliper is red.
Installed forward air vent tube bracket and cut hose to proper length.
Finished brake line fabrication.
Decided to scrap the JDAIR rudder stops partly because I over trimmed one side and the throw was beyond 35° and I feel the stock stops are more robust. So I did the initial trim on the stops.
Installed seat heat harness clickbonds and one for the voltage regulator and gear tower harness.
Spent a couple hours removing rivets from the forward center section flange in order to get the proper spacing for the spar stubs.
Installed rudder pedal slide stop. Decided to scrap the threaded rod adjuster. Although it worked well I had concerns for robustness. In the end having this part fail was unrecoverable and unsafe.
Began fabricating brake lines from master cylinders to bulkhead manifold.
Installed banjo fittings to remaining brake lines.
Installed rod ends to flap drive rods.
Applied non skid to forward baggage shelf and aft baggage bulkhead.
Began applying micro to inside corners of canopy frame.
Drilled and riveted nutplate to instrument subpanel then installed brake fluid reservoir line adel clamp.
Aeromotive 