Fabricated wingtip stiffeners using a CPVC pipe cut in half as a mold. Glassed up two layers then filled the center with flox. Slightly heavier than I wanted but stiff enough.
- High quality kit. Since I have a slow build fuselage I was able to add the ribs and skin as I built the fuselage.
The canopy directions are not the best for a neophyte. The only gotchas are:
The gas strut location end on the seat back support. Keep in mind the strut will further collapse as canopy opens. My location was almost too short. Better to have the canopy go slightly beyond 90° when open to prevent bottoming while closing.
I would make reference marks on the canopy before trimming. Two on each side at 1/4 graduations and centerline forward and aft.
When trimming the forward end of the canopy have someone help push the canopy sides to the flange. Doing so raises the front of the canopy. Mine ended up with about a 1/2″ gap. Tracing the contour of the shirt with a sharpie onto the canopy will maintain proper shape as you trim the front.
Before bonding canopy to frame cleco parts together then mask off inside of canopy at upper flange for hysol squeeze out. This prevents tape for being pinched between the flange if masked slightly low.
Bond canopy with frame on a table then remove inside tape and squeeze out ASAP. Then install canopy onto plane and cure. Add extra mask anywhere you think squeeze out may drip.
Installed nutplates to allow for removal of rudder fairing.
Added formed aluminum exit fairings.
Thanks to Matt Dralle for publishing the details for this upgrade which can be found here:
I did not care for the Vans locking pin adjuster so I fabricated my own using a stainless threaded rod. Adjustment is more precise with the trade off being a slightly heavier assembly.
Fabricated a rear avionics shelf behind baggage bulkhead for remote transponder and ELT.