- High quality kit. Since I have a slow build fuselage I was able to add the ribs and skin as I built the fuselage.
The canopy directions are not the best for a neophyte. The only gotchas are:
The gas strut location end on the seat back support. Keep in mind the strut will further collapse as canopy opens. My location was almost too short. Better to have the canopy go slightly beyond 90° when open to prevent bottoming while closing.
I would make reference marks on the canopy before trimming. Two on each side at 1/4 graduations and centerline forward and aft.
When trimming the forward end of the canopy have someone help push the canopy sides to the flange. Doing so raises the front of the canopy. Mine ended up with about a 1/2″ gap. Tracing the contour of the shirt with a sharpie onto the canopy will maintain proper shape as you trim the front.
Before bonding canopy to frame cleco parts together then mask off inside of canopy at upper flange for hysol squeeze out. This prevents tape for being pinched between the flange if masked slightly low.
Bond canopy with frame on a table then remove inside tape and squeeze out ASAP. Then install canopy onto plane and cure. Add extra mask anywhere you think squeeze out may drip.
Painted the inside of canopy frame. After 8 months of sanding I can call it done!
With the canopy complete all major airframe construction is finally complete after 4 years. Items left for later are engine cowl, wheel pants, and wing gap fairings. Next up is Avionics install. Hoping to have this sled on its gear and moved to the garage for engine install by next summer.